A Trip into the Highlands

Rannoch Moor is one of the bleakest parts of Scotland, yet it has a beauty that is hard to ignore. With the marshy land, dotted with a number of small lochs, and the hills of the Black Mount not too far away it is an area that can keep you captivated for some time. It also does not prepare you for what comes next.

Crossing the moor, with its bleak, middle of nowhere appearance, you are not expecting the sudden appearance of Buachaille Etive Mor – the big shepherd of Etive! This is probably one of the most famous hills in Scotland, and has certainly been photographed many times. It keeps your attention for some time and you almost don’t notice the small, single-track road that heads southwest through Glen Etive until you are almost at it.

The intention was not to go this way due to the weather – it hadn’t stopped raining for some time (days it seemed) and the danger was of losing too much light for any photographs. However, out of curiosity, we headed down this road and never once regretted it! The hills were beautiful with what seemed like hundreds of waterfalls cascading down them into the River Etive. Then, in a section of road that was lined with trees, which obscured the view, we spotted the deer crossing the road. It spotted us as well and, as if it knew our reason for being there, stopped by the side of the road long enough for us to get a couple of shots!

We continued down the road to Loch Etive at the bottom, which was as stunning as the route had suggested it might be. A brief stop here to take in the views across the loch, but, as that was the end of the road; we had to head back the way we came. The good thing was, heading the opposite way, we saw as much as the original part of this detour. But back up to Glen Coe we headed and started to consider stopping for the night, which we would eventually do in Fort William.

First though we had to get through the glen. Buachaille Etive Mor and Beag, The Three Sisters, Aonach Eagach - names that are familiar to those who visit Glen Coe. Scenes that are familiar to many with the multitude of pictures taken of the area. We added a few to our own collection.

As another detour we headed through Glencoe village (or Bridge of Coe as it’s also known). Near the village is a monument to the Macdonalds who were ruthlessly massacred by the Campbells in 1692.

From the village, the A82 continues west, along the southern shore of Loch Leven, to the Ballachulish Bridge. Alternatively the B863 takes you round Loch Leven, firstly heading east to Kinlochleven and then west to rejoin the A82 at North Ballachulish. This was the route we followed.

From North Ballachulish the A82 then continues northwest, alongside Loch Linnhe, to Fort William.

Having decided in Glen Etive that we were going to stop for the night, it was finally time to find somewhere. Driving towards the town itself every house seemed to offer bed and breakfast or was a small hotel. However, at this time of year, there are more “no vacancies” displayed than otherwise. However, as luck would have it we spotted one that was not only available, but cheap as well!

Fort William itself is nothing spectacular and if it wasn’t for the fact it stands at the foot of Ben Nevis it would probably be overlooked by most people. However, for that reason, it is a place that everyone seems to stop. It’s just a shame that the shops all close at nine, apart from the off licence, so stocking up for the next day would need to wait till the morning. At least we could have a beer… if only we’d remembered to bring a bottle opener... Next day we headed along the Road to the Isles which is another story.